This is the home of the city food guides: one “where to eat in” guide per city, each in the same shape (neighbourhoods, meals, dishes to order, prices, what to book, where to stay nearby). Around them sits the rest of eating out: the set lunch, the market hall, the counter that takes walk-ins, and when to tip.
Where to eat in Lisbon, neighbourhood by neighbourhood is that shape in full: a custard tart at a counter for breakfast, a cervejaria or an Alentejo kitchen for lunch, and a ginjinha on Largo de São Domingos to finish. When the table you want has gone, how to get a table at a fully booked restaurant takes the moves in order, from the hour bookings open to the walk-in counter. And before you add anything to the bill, tipping in Europe says for 20 countries whether service is already on it and what to leave if it is not.